Guggenheim Museum
MoMA
The Met
National Museum of American Indian
New York City
Upper East Side
See:
Asia Society, 725 Park Ave (70) ;bookstore/shop; cafe Met (5th Ave & 84) Neue Galerie, 1028 5th Ave (86) / Breakfast- Café Sabarsky Guggenheim Museum, 1071 5th Ave (88) Cooper-Hewitt Museum of Design, 2 E. 91 Jewish Museum (5th Ave & 92) /Breakfast or lunch Russ & Daughters café Museo el Bario, 1250 5th Ave (106)
Eat:
La Maison du Chocolate, Madison (78 ); coconut bouchee,maron glaces ,pates des fruits,arribas wafers,cuana chocolate bars, romeo,bacchus,chiberta,canelle, rigoletto noir Eli’s Manhattan, 1411 Third Ave (80),lemon meringue cake, jelly or chocolate yeast donut Greenbergs, 1100 Mad (82); cupcakes, prune or apricot strip Andre’s, 2nd Ave & 84 St, cabbage strudel Schaller & Weber, 1654Second Ave(86),liverwurst Glasser’s Bake Shop, 1st Ave (87 )bl &wh cookies,brownies, lemon mer.pie, butter pecans, danish
Upper West Side
See:
Museum of Art and Design (MAD), 2 Columbus Circle Bard Center for Decorative Arts, 18 W. 86
Eat:
Hummus Place, 305 Amsterdam (74) topped w fava beans(foul);mint lemonade Levain Bakery, 167 W. 74; choc. chip walnut cookie,brioche w cinn. sugar,blueberry muffins Zabars, 2245 Broadway (80) double smoked nova, Choctal ice creams Flor de Mayo,484 Amsterdam, Peruvian rotisserie chicken Barney Greengrass, 541 Amsterdam (86) chocolate babkas ; Café:scrambled eggs w onions & smoked salmon, sable or sturgeon Kee’s Chocolates, 228 Columbus Ave (70) crème brulee truffle,passion fruit bonbons,black sesame,blood orange
Mid Town
See:
Morgan Library and Museum (Madison & 36) MoMA (11 W 53) Birdland Jazz, 315 W. 44
Eat:
Great Northern Food Hall (Grand Central Station) breakfast and lunch Hangawi, 32 St nr Fifth Ave., vegan, Emperor’s menu Minar, 138 W.46 (bewt 6th & 7th) samosas Margon, 136 W.46; roast pork hero(w crackling);Cuban sandwich Sullivan St. Bakery, 533 W.47, schiacciate,semolina bread,fennel or bianca pizza,truccione sare loaf, pane pugliese, bombolini,small pizzas,panini Gazaza Place, 709 Ninth Ave (49) incredible druze cuisine,kenafi dessert,bourekas Hillstone, 544 3rd Ave (53) best & priciest veggie burger
Chelsea
Eat:
Donut Hut, 14 St (nr 8th Ave) boston crèmes
Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Ave (W.15 & 16):
Buon Italia- ventresca di Tonno in olive oil; Zia Tunia: pastiera Cull & Pistol- clam roast Amy’s -semolina with raisins and fennel twist,cashew bars,fruit pies,monkey cake Dickson’s Farmstand Meats- rolled beef(“pastrami”), pulled pork with coleslaw, chicken, 1/2 roast chicken Ronybrook Milk Bar-chocolate ice cream/oatmeal sandwich , ginger crème brulee Beyond Sushi) vegan- spicy mango roll , mighty mushroom, monthly specials Mokbar- Korean style ramen (cold in summer), dumplings Los Tacos #1- pork adobada, corn tortillas with grilled cactus Lobster Place- fresh sushi, lobster roll, seafood chowders Num Pang- Asian sandwiches (roasted cauliflower, seasonal specials)
Grand Sichuan, 229 Ninth Ave (24) tea smoked duck;Sichuan or Mao’s menu Salumeria Biellese, 376 8th Ave (29) sausages,roast pork with greens sandwich
Union Square/Madison Square
See:
Rubin Museum, 150 W. 17 National Museum of Mathematics (11 E. 26 St) Jazz Gallery, 1160 Broadway (27)
Eat:
Union Square Market:
Our Daily Bread- regular & whole wheat baguettes Rock Hill Bakehouse- seeded caraway rye,8 grain/3 seed (toasted) , (S) Cyuga Organics- polenta,turtle beans (W) Tremblay-sunflower honey P.E.&D.D.Seafood-fish (M,S) Berried Treasures-favas,borlotti beans,strawberries (W) Eckerton Hill Farm-heirloom tomatoes (M,W,S) Samascott Farm-cherries,berries (F) Windfall Farms-baby greens,shots,sprouts (W,S) Berkshire Berries- schisandra jelly (M,W,S) Hot Bread Kitchen- M’smen (grilled breakfast flatbread) Milk Thistle Organic Dairy- yogurt (S)
Breads Bakery, 18 E. 16(Fifth)frittata sandwich, cinn babka, choc rugalech, palmiers, olive/cheese breadsticks Eat Italy, 200 Fifth(23) gelateria- gelato in brioche, zabaglione/bakery-focaacia with crushed tomatoes ;La Piazza- san marzano pizza/ rott. chicken (by lb.), fish sandwich Kalustyan, 123 Lex (28) mujaddara sandwich;dried white mulberries,sharbat rooh afza , amba (topping for falafel) No. 7 Sub, 1188 Broadway (29) roast beef, braised lamb sandwich
Village
See:
Village Vanguard , 178 7th Ave (11 St) Smalls Jazz Club, 183 W. 10
Eat:
Hao Noodle & Tea by Madam Zhu’s Kitchen, 401 6th Ave
NY Dosa (cart) south side Washington Sq Park (W 4 & Sullivan) masala dosas Pearl Oyster Bar, 18 Cornelia (Bleeeker & W.4) chowder,lobster rolls,fried oysters,praline sundae,blueberry pie
East Village
Eat:
l Buco Alimentari,534 Great Jones(Bowery)breakfast(porcehtta & eggs); finnoochina salami, lonza (cured ham) Ippudo, 65 4th Ave (9 St), ramen with pork cheeks,whole cuke w sesame dressing
SOHO
Eat:
73 Sullivan St., Grandaisy Bakery, 7-7semolina br., fennel or white pizza, schiacciate, poundcake 149 Sullivan St., Pepe Rosso, cured beef sandwich, chicken guacomole bacon sandwich Dominique Ansel Bakery, 189 Spring (Sullivan), kouign-amann, Paris-Brest,slice of gateau battu, mini cheesecake,lemon maple cronut Sunrise Mart, 494 Broome (W.Broadway) Japanese prepared foods Black Seed Bagel, 170 Elizabeth (Kenmare) tobiko spread & smoked salmon (very exp) Parm, 248 Mulberry (Prince) turkey sandwich , Saratoga club, chicken or eggplant parm
Lower East Side
Eat:
Katz’s; 205 E. Houston (Ludlow); pastrami Schimmels Knishes &Yogurt, 137 E. Houston, cherry or blueberry drink Russ and Daughters; 179 E. Houston (Orchard)Scottish salmon, kippered whiting salmon; whitefish and baked salmon salad; chopped liver;herring in cream sauce/Super Heeb sandwich ,beet and lemon shrub;mimi bagels Café on Orchard Kossar’s Bakery, 367 Grand (Essex) mini-onion disks
Chinatown
Eat:
Great N.Y.Noodletown, 281 Bowery; roast pork in noodle soup;Hong kong style lomein w egg and crab;soup w shrimp dumplings, flowering chives w duck; baby bok choy Fay Da Bakery, 83 Mott; pork buns,coconut cream pastries Chinatown Ice Cream Factory, 65 Bayard; red bean, mango Dim Sum GoGo,5 E. Broadway (Chatham Sq) duck dumplings, pork buns, lotus w chicken and sticky rice, tapioca dumplings, roast pork pie with black sesame Vanessa’s Dumpling House,118A Eldridge (Broome) chive & pork dumplings, noodles w sesame sauce & sesame pancake sandwich w roast pork (or duck);sour & spicy cucumber Joe’s Shanghai, 9 Pell St, soup dumplings
Lower Manhattan
See:
Whitney Museum, 99 Gansevoort High Line and Little Island National Museum of American Indian, 1 Bowling Green
Eat:
Locanda Verde, 377 Greenwich ;polenta waffle,bloddy mary,olive oil coffee cake, brocc rabe/sausage grinder
Harlem
See:
Studio Museum (temporarily closed)
Canada
Montreal
Hotel: Auberge Bonaparte, in old city , fabulous inn with wonderful breakfast.,located in great neighborhood, walking distance to metro & sites. Own another smaller inn down the street Auberge du Vieux-Port
See:
Museum of Archeology Canadian Center for Architecture (walk or metro). Temporary exhits; bookstore Montreal Museum of Decorative Arts and Montreal Museum of Fine Arts Botanical Gardens ; Japanese and Chinese gardens and Insectarium (metro)
Note: more fine sites to see and a two day museum pass will get you into most and can be purchased at all sites.
Montreal is home of Cirque du Soleil. Website for schedule
Eat:
Toque. 3842 rue St.Denis (metro). Reserve Le Passe-Partout. 3857 blvd.Decarie (5 min. walk south from Villa Maria metro stop). Reserve. Bakery out front.
Toronto
See:
Bata Shoe Museum- don’t miss, trust me. Permanent display and temporary exhibits Art Gallery of Ontario-Permanent collection of "group of seven" painters ;Henry Moore plaster casts Textile Museum- worthwhile detour from Art Gallery of Ontario (1 bl. from dim sum) Royal Ontario Museum-first floor collection of Chinese art the best! Inuit art, natural history , decorative arts. Lunch Gardner Ceramic Museum-across ROM. Pre-Columbian in permanent collection and temp exhibits
Do: Website theatreintoronto lists everything and how to buy tickets. Second City Comedy Club (for show, not dinner) in theatre district . 1-800-263-4485
Eat:
Jamie Kennedy (Royal Ontario Museum) Lunch. Reserve Lai Wah Heen (Metropolitan Hotel),118 Chestnut St. dim sum and/or dinner. Reserve Canoe . 66 Wellington St, 54th Fl. of Mies van de Rohe building. Tasting menu . Wines from Ontario. Request window table. Reserve Green Mango . 730 Yonge St; cafeteria-style Thai. Lunch or dinner.
Vancouver
See:
Art Gallery of Vancouver. See www.vanartgallery.bc.ca for temporary exhibits, esp of contemporary art. Permanent collection of Emily Carr and the "group of seven" painters from Canada Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. 578 Carrall St. in Chinatown. Stanley Park. Great place to wander the trails and take in the views
UBC Museum of Anthropology. Take Bus 4 or 10 on Granville St to the end. Campus map will guide you to walk to the museum. Incredible collection of NW Coast art, visible storage galleries ;remarkable building by Arthur Erickson UBC Botanical Gardens. Quite a walk from the museum, but worth it. Closer garden to visit is the Japanese Garden, which is on the way to the museum.
Eat:
Sage. 6331 Crescent Rd. at the University Center of UBC. Across street from museum for very good lunch Imperial Chinese. 355 Burrard near Hastings in the fantastic Marine Building(peak into lobby). Dim Sum or dinner.Request window table. Vij's. 1480 W, 11th Ave. off Granville. In art gallery district. Dinner only.Great Indian-fusion menu. Raincity Grill. 1193 Denman at Beach. Lunch or Dinner. Eclectic,fresh and simple. Tojo's. 777 West Broadway nr. Oak(2nd Fl). Best Japanese "C". 2-1600 Howe St at the water. Fresh seafood to die for
Excursion: Rocky Mountaineer Railtours have 3-10 day packages that include the scenic train trip,breakfast,lunch and hotel to Jasper,Banff, Columbia Icefields,Lake Louise,etc. Can be taken as a roundtrip from Vancouver or begin in Vancouver and end in Calgary. Website or 1-800-665-7245 for booklet.
Hotels: Rimrock Hotel and Ristorante Classico at Banff and Jasper Park Lodge and Edith Cavell Dining Room
Florence
Rome
Verona
Venice
Italy
Florence
Websites: english.firenze.net ; commune.firenze.it
Loggiato dei Serviti
See:
Orsanmichele (outside sculptures and inside Orcagna's tablernacle) Baptistry (inside) and Museum of the Duomo (behind Duomo) Pazzi Chapel (next to Santa Croce church)
Do:
Take the No. 7 bus at San Marco square to Fiesole for the view and ruins Walk or take bus up to San Miniato al Monte Church. View cemetery and church. If you are there around closing time (5:30), stay for the last half hour to hear the monks chant Vespers
Eat:
Trattoria Antellessi. via Faenza 9.( grilled chicken with peppers, pasta with chianti beef or gorgonzola sauce, pear and pecorino salad and panna cotta with chocolate sauce) Osteria de'Benci. via de'Benci 13r ; simple, superb Tuscan fare
Cibreo. via dei Verrocchio 8. There are two versions of this place, one is the world reknown, expensive restaurant out front and the other is the small trattoria behind and connected to it sharing the same kitchen. If you go early when they open( probably 7:30), you might get in to the smaller one which offers a shorter version of the same menu at half the price.Esp.yellow pepper soup, tomato aspic, chicken meatballs
Gelato: Vivolis , esp. nut and fresh fruit flavors.Try riso (rice) flavor combined with rum raisin Gelateria Carabe. via Ricasoli near Accademia for coffee or lemon granita
Shop:
Bartolini. via dei Servi 30; kitchenware Il Torchio. via dei Bardi 17 (across Arno); handmade paper products Madova.via Guicciardini (across Ponte Vechhio); gloves La Botteghina. via Guelfa, 5r; ceramics (better than Siena) Passameri Toscani. Piazza San Lorenzo; pillows Profumo Pharmacia, via della Scala 16 (near Piazza S. M.Novella);beautiful antique interior, artisan soaps, perfumes, extracts made by Italian convents and monasteries
Lucca
Train: one hour from Florence
See: Church of San Martino (inside right chapel sarcophagus of Illario)
Do: Stroll perimeter of town on top of wall
Eat:
Buca di San Antonio. via della Cervia 1 (esp. farro soup, roast goat, pappadelle pasta with rabbit, fresh anchoives, ravioli stuffed with pumpkin) Osteria Pasquale (reservation)
Shop: Cerali Sementi Marcucci. via Santa Lucia 13; best place for Lucca olive oil, castelluccio lentils and dried beans, farro, vegetable seeds for the garden
Verona
Hotel Accademia. Hotel Columba d'Oro
See:
Castelvecchio; restoration and installation by Carlo Scarpa; Bellini's St. Jerome, Mantegna's Holy Family, 14th century sculpture on ground floor Banca Popolare di Verona. Piazza Nogara 2; rehabilitation by Carlo Scarpa; lobby and around back also Giusti Gardens Piazza dei Signoria and nearby Tombs of the Scaligers Church of San Anastasia. Pisanello's St. George fresco; Pellegrini Chapel with terracottas depicting life of Christ; hunchback holy water fonts Church of San Zeno Maggiore. bronze doors; Mantegna triptych
Do: Opera: last week of June til beg. of Sept.; www.arena.it
Eat:
Market: daily in Piazza delle Erbe; picnic fare, panini, fruit Gelato: La Boutique. via Carlo Ederle 13; fragolino, amarone, spumante, dark chocolate La Greppia. vicolo Samaritana 3, cl.M; tortelloni de zucca, "diplomatic cake" Tre Marchetti. vicolo Tre Marchetti 19 (near Arena); snails and polenta, ossobuco Osteria Sgarzerie. corte Sgarzerie 14; baccala with polenta, pasta with chicken; tartuffo
Rome
Read: City Secrets Rome. Robet Kahn, editor; The Little Bookroom,NY
See (non-tourist) :
National Pasta Museum. p.Scanderberg ( near Trevi Fountain) Gallery Borghese.timed reservations required Museo Nazionale Romano(Palazzo Altemps),near P.Navonna Vatican Museum: modern collection and Fra Angelico Chapel Piazza del Campidoglio(Capitoline Museum and Palazzo Conservatori) Santa Maria in Cosmedin Museo Nazionale Romano (Palazzo Massimo in Terme) San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, via del Quirinale 23 Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica (Palazzo Barberini) Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza,corso del Rinascimento 40; courtyard open most days; church, only open Sun 9-12 Santa Maria in Trastevere San Pietro in Montorio; off via Garibaldi in Travestere; Tempietto by Bramante outside and Flagellation mural inside Santi Quattro Coronati;free-standing Chapel of San Silvestro, mosaic floors and Cloister San Clemente.via di San Giovanni in Lanterano; aspe,Masolini frescos(.St.Christopher and Annunciation);floors
Eat:
Ditirambo. p.della Cancelleria ( off Campo di Fiori)reservations mixed salumi to begin, , green salads ,superb veg. specialities;mixed cheeses to end Paris. p.San Callisto 7 (off p.SantaMaria in Trastevere);fried mixed vegetables, fresh anchoives and homemade bresaola to begin; skate soup, oxtail; fried ricotta balls to end Da Giggetto. via Portico d'Ottavia 21 (across Teatro Marcello in Jewish Quarter); reservations;Jewish fried artichokes, stuffed squash blossoms and fried bacala(cod) to begin; lamb dishes
Bread/Pastries :Panini:Il Forno. di Campo dei Fiori 22(and adjacent corner also) Gelato:San Crispino.via della Panetteria 42 (near Trevi) Pear, pistachio, meringue amagnac, hazelnut or speciality "gelato san crispino" Frullati (Italian fruit milkshakes): Pascucci. via Torre Argentina (off corso Victoria Emm.)
Shop:
Spazio Sette. v.d.Barberi,(off Large Argentina and corso Vitt.Emm) ;design/housewares Ai Monasteri. corso Rinascimento 72 ( near P.Navonna); wines, liquers, creams,honey,jams from Italian monasteries and convents Flea Market: Sundays 7-1. Porta Portese area in Trastevere; cameos,capodimonte, old Florentine jewelry, second-hand clothes, antiques
Pistoia
Easy, wonderful day trip by train (half hour) from Florence.
See:
Duomo , Baptistry(opposite it) and Museo della Cattedrale (shown only on guided tour) Palazzo del Commune with Museo Civico (on 2nd fl) Church of S. Giovanni Fuorcivitas Church of San Domenico Foundation for Marino Marini (across from San Domenico) Ospedale del Ceppo (outside- hospital facade frieze of della Robbia terracottas) Church of San Andrea Madonna dell'Umilta
Eat:
S. Jacopo. via Crispi 15 (3 bls. from Duomo and between San Domenico and S.Giovanni Fuorcivitas) Pasta with duck ragu, grilled squid, apple strudel
Padua
Train: 30 mins. from Venice, every 30 mins;10 min. walk or Bus No. 10 to town
Hotel: Albergo Leon Bianco
See:
Eremitani; remnants of Mantegna frescoes Cappella degli Scrovegni (Arena Chapel);Giotto frescoes.Lamentation scene; Pisano statues above altar
Basilica of St. Anthony; Donatello's equestrian statue outside and bronzes on altar Oratorio di San Giorgio. Piazza del Santo; frescoes by Altichiero Church of Torresino. Piazza Torresino; altar and floor by Carlo Scarpa (1978)
Eat:
Osteria Speroni. via Speroni 36; reserve , seafood Caffe Pedrocchi(off Piazza Cavour); hot chocolate,coffee, pastries Market -Piazza delle Erbe – mornings except Sun.; picnic fare, panini, ,flea-market
Orvieto
Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini; Room 311 or 211 corner rooms
See:
Archeological Museum Etruscan Museum(amazing collection of vases) Capella Nouva in Duomo((Signorelli frescoes);tickets at Info office;
Do: Sotteraneo (underground tour of caves); English tour at 12:30 or 5:30; at Info office Winter Jazz Festival (Dec. 27-Jan. 1) Mass for Peace with U.S. gospel choir, New Years Day, Duomo, 5;00 (doors open at 4:00)
Eat:
La Grotta del Funaro; great pizza Antica Trattoria dell’Orso Gelateria G. Pasqualetti; chocolate Gelateria del Duomo; hazelnut and fruit flavors Pasticceria Montanucci, corso Cavour 21; reginal cookies Fratelli, via del Duomo 10; own olive oil and boar salumi
Shop: Papillon, via del Duomo ; very special local lace selection
Perugia
Website: commune.perugia.it Local bus from train station to P. Italia (main square)
Locanda della Posta, corso Vannucci 97, rooms facing main street noisy; request top floor rear
See:
Piazza IV Novembre (fountain, duomo, town hall) Temple of San Michele Archangelo (walk to by via Garibaldi) Oratorio of San Bernardino Church of San Pietro Church of Sant’Ercolano National Gallery of Umbria(Piero della Francesca) Collegio del Cambio, (Perugino frescos)
Do: Jazz Festival for two weeks in July
Eat:
La Taverna, pasta with duck ragu, grilled pecorino cheese, baci perugina mousse Antica Trattoria San Lorenzo; tasting menu Cesarino; Reserve; spinach ricotta pockets; grilled meats; potato fries;spaghetti alla sabbia Talmone; via Maeste delle Volte; huge candy selection Perugina Chocolates; corso Vannucci (next to hotel); candy bars half price Panetteria Ceccarini; p.Matteotti 16; cookies and torta di formaggio Spezeria Bavicchi. P.Matteotti 32;regional beans, farro and lentils
Bologna
Grand Hotel Baglioni
See:
Anatomical Teatre, Univ of Bologna, Piazza Galvani;free Museo Morandi, Palazzo d’Accursio Museo Civico Archeologico Museo Ducati, motorcycle museum Santa Maria dei Servi;esp. the Cimabue, altar (see Adam on left side bottom) Santo Stefano San Domenico; esp. tomb (in the sixth chapel on the right)
Museo del Patrimonio Industriale di Bologna, via della Beverara 123 You need a car or taxi to reach the museum, but it is worth it. It traces industry in Bologna from the twisting of the silk thread to the industrial revolution, to motorcycles etc.
Do: Stada Maggiore-walking street with Gothic mansions
Eat:
Asti-pastry and pasta shop; esp. chocolate cake with walnuts Antico Ristaurante Benso, viccolo San Giobble;great lamb dishes Trattoria Anna Maria, Via delle Bele Arti;homemade pasta, reasonable Ristorante Diana;semi-ferddo with chocolate sauce;cl. Mondays Caffe Vittorio Emmanuele, Piazza Maggiore;gelato Nutelleria, 45 Via Indipendenza Tratoria Gianni;via Clavature 18;fresh pasta and tottellini Clavature, Via Clavature 17/C .pumpkin tortellini and chocolate cake . Not expensive. Trattoria del Rosso, Via August Righi 30 ;Oldest trattoria in city;pork roast ,pastas and vege. options Trattoria Leonida, Vicolo Alemagna #2
Shop: Tamburni, via Capraie;speciality foods (self-serve cafeteria for lunch)